WOW OZONE ROCKS

So I spent all day in the sun yesterday with minimal sunscreen on, and all day today walking around Pompeii in the sun with no sunscreen at all on. I’m either barely sunburned, or not burned at all.

In Melbourne, underneath the northern edge of the hole in the ozone layer, I burn in a bit more than a minute. I’m not exaggerating, I’ve timed it. About 70-80 seconds after I’m in the sun my skin starts to get this tingling, prickling feeling. That’s my skin starting to burn. It’s pretty cool for the first time in my entire life to not be afraid of the sun (it will literally kill me), nor to have to plan all of my outside movements around where shade is located.

Yep, ozone. Big fan.

Italy – or the Roman countryside – is awash in trees

A lot of what I write in this thing is meant to be mainly of interest to Australians, because a lot of what I’m going to write is me going on about the differences I’m noticing between Melbourne in particular and Australia in general.

Such as: trees. On the bus from Rome to Pompeii, I’m struck by the enormous number of trees, everywhere. It’s not quite driving through a forest, but it’s also completely different from the bare, flat, scorched and denuded landscape you encounter one you leave the outer suburbs of most Australian cities.

It’s really nice. It breaks up the view, it’s pleasant to look at, and it’s probably good at keeping down noise and air pollution

The War on Terra

(From a reply I sent to my Mum)

you made it in one piece and you breezed through the airport, well done .
Oh it was epic. “Excuse me can I come in on my EU passport even though I left Australia on my AU passport?” “Yes of course” says one of the many, many supermodels working at Rome airport. Cool. Walk to totally empty scanner, look at ENORMOUS queue at the non-EU section, laugh, scan passport, look at facial scanner, oh yeah my hat, reach up to take it off, get scanned *with my arm across my face* – beep! Green light, in I go, walk past security booth, two guys talking to each other, they just wave me through and don’t even look at me.
I’ve just entered Europe.

——————–

Not joking about that supermodels thing, I was very impressed by Italian customer service.

Initial impressions of Rome.

WOAH THE TRAFFIC OMFG. Although what really gets me is the *parking*. We had an airport transfer arranged, although it would have actually been easier to get the train from Rome airport to Roma Termini – the main railway station of Rome and literally 1 block from our hotel. But, eh, it’s paid for, off we go. There followed about 2 hours of the most mind-boggling driving, as our driver took us along a range of rinki-dink backstreets (don’t they have freeways and main roads? Does he have a litany of sneaky shortcuts?), where we were

  • wowed by the Roman habit of parking cars with (maybe) 10cm gaps between them,
  • amazed by the ability of cars to just drive full-time into any gap, trusting in everyone *else* to arrange themselves around the interloper,
  • shocked by the complete lack of attention paid to the sticking-to-your-side-of-the-road-you-dickhead part of driving,
  • thrilled by the completely reckless scooter drivers who seem to have acquired an invulnerability superpower when they collected their scooter from the dealer,
  • mystified by a complete lack if bicycles. Did not see a single one
  • horrified, terrified but also incredibly impressed by our driver’s ability to squeeze our bus through gaps you wouldn’t think a bus could fit through, literally millimetres-wide gaps, yup, powers straight through them. It was a truly virtuoso performance

We were the second-last to be dropped off, and spent 2 hours cruising (hooning, really) the back-streets of inner-city Rome, which, surprisingly, is completely stuffed full of Very Impressive Old Stuff. Oh and the Victor Emmanuel is IMMENSE. I had no idea how truly vast it is, having seen a lot of photos of it since primary school. You get the impression that’s it’s big, but not how most of a hill is taken up by it

Rome has very very little advertising. It’s great. I am complete infuriated by how advertising has slowly invaded the visual landscape, as if these monsters have a *right* to colonise my field of view. Rome has a few billboards here and there (not many at all), names and logos on premises, that’s it. I love it, it totally changes how a street looks and I’d argue is far more calming and a lot less exhausting.

Rome reminds me a lot of Melbourne, it’s an extremely multicultural city, and just like Melbourne has a shitload of Italians everywhere. Hardly any Indians or Asians, which I was surprised by. It’s like Preston but with vast, vast, vast, truly mind-boggling numbers of blocks of flats. The enormous density of this ancient human hive warps my head just thinking about it.

There seems to be many clumps of guys just …. hanging out … around the station. After having it endlessly impressed on me how SUPER-DODGY Europe is I wasn’t overly concerned, but it certainly made the place feel seedy. We sat outside at a ristorante and had pizza (have discovered prosecution, yum) and were constantly pestered by guys walking up to us, leaning over the fence and trying to sell us shit. Not shit as in “non-specific items” but shit as in junk. Africans and (one) Arab. I’m assuming these are refugees/immigrants with no other source of income. Not sure what the protocol for telling people to piss off is in a foreign country.

It feels a bit grimy and unkempt compared to Melbourne. Lots of footpaths with weeds (tall weeds!) growing out of them. Also – many streets with no footpaths.

Did I mention the scooters? There’s hordes of them, *everywhere*, I saw quite a few streets where the entire (very narrow) street is completely lined on both sides with scooters. Which of course our bus driver entered absolutely flat-out

STREET BUSKING IS COOL but not very lucrative. As we approached an intersection I saw a guy doing this juggling… thingy with 6 luminous hoops. Very impressive. He was standing at the line for a red light, so super-visible to all vehicles pulling up to stop. But then the lights changed so everyone drives off. He got money from two people. Cha-ching! Still, it beats the shit out of English tourist junkies washing your car windscreen for you

I’ve now been awake for 47 hours. Time to crash.

More later….

Exit Through The Gift Shop

Little do we realise, we’re about to enter a garish supermarket, as if Channel 7 is in charge of our last view of Australia

You literally have to walk through the middle of the duty-free shop to enter the departure areas. Australia can be a pretty crass place, but fuck me, this has to be the least Melbourne place in Melbourne.

Was not expecting to be x-rayed. Was not expecting the facial recognition system. Probably should have. The future’s so bright etc (but I’m not permitted to wear shades).

Getting ready

finalising packing, really wish I’d thought about getting an Australian flag patch to put on my backpack, oh well.  Can’t sort our seats out until we get to the airport, which is annoying.  I wonder what I’ll forge to take with me?

 

I’m about 36 hours away from Rome.